These herrings are as popular in Russia as they are in Poland. In Russia this dish would be known as pod shuboy, which translates as ‘under a fur coat’, referring to the fact that in this recipe the herrings lie snug underneath all the other ingredients. In Poland, we know this dish as śledzie pod pierzynką, meaning ‘under a duvet’.
The most memorable time I ate this dish was in the Liternaturnoye Café in St Petersburg, where Pushkin had his final glass of water or lemonade – no one is sure – before being mortally wounded in a duel over his love, the beautiful and flirtatious Natalia.