Just out of town, my family owns a farm, which my lolo and lola (grandparents) bought as a retreat. Here, we enjoy native simplicity. A makeshift hut sits by the cool river, where a table is lined with banana leaves. Next, a big coal pit is set alight. Then inihaw na liempo arrives hot from the flames and we eat it boodle fight-style (see note). Pork belly and Filipino barbecues go hand-in-hand; the fat drips into the flames, which flares up and chars the skin, and smoke infuses the juicy meat.