My cousin, Ace, loves street food. In the afternoon, he snacks on steamed sio pao. Before dinner, he heads off for a fix of skewered fish balls. And late into the night, he knows which vendors are still open selling fried kekiam. In the Philippines, kekiam are not often made at home, despite being relatively easy to prepare. The flavoursome filling combining pork and fish is processed to a paste, which produces a springy texture comparable to Thai fish cakes. Look for bean curd sheets or tofu ‘skin’ at Asian grocery stores.