Sometimes I like to pretend I’m in France – or that I’m much more soignée than I am. One way is to pull out a Breton striped shirt and a silk scarf. The other way is to serve this dish to guests. Radishes with butter and salt are a classic bistro starter, often paired with a crusty baguette. Yet the crunch of the radishes, particularly if they’ve been perked up in iced water, has little need for a yeasted dough. Instead, try adding the murky flavour of truffle to the combination for a deft bit of distraction. The mushroomy aroma of truffled salt (available from many delis) adds an interesting complexity. If you really want to push the boat out, though, try serving the butter melted with a few slivers of fresh truffle floating and infusing in it.