Those with a plot will understand the plight: what do you do with the end-of-season glut of courgettes? Once, you might have snuck them into cakes or breads. Certainly, you can sauté slices by the stack, or practise your pickles. But might I suggest you put them to work here? Swaddling a skinless fillet of fish in overlapping strips of green and white calls for just a few minutes of craft with a vegetable peeler, but leaves a lasting visual impression. One other bonus is how it protects the delicate flesh of white fish fillets from the heat of a grill or a pan. I find it’s worth getting a good char on the crust to contrast with the pliant ‘noodle salad’ on the side, which is made from the remaining ribbons of courgette and glossed with a perky salsa verde. Additionally, ribbons of courgette make an excellent substitution for noodles in many dishes – try them wafting in chicken or miso soup, or dressed with pesto for a lighter version of pasta.