Pulled pork should traditionally be eaten on a white roll so fluffy it could stand in for a duvet. What we need is something else to soak up the sticky juice and to act as a foil for the soft threads of meat. Dirty rice is one option. Cajun in origin, it traditionally melds the murk of chicken liver with rice. Here we can imitate its dark complexity with a few shades of quinoa, some lentils and a hit of spice (though if you fancy adding in some ground chicken livers, go ahead). With the tacky sweetness of the peaches, this is a dish that cries out for some sharp cut-through – a slaw of cabbage dressed in apple cider vinegar would be one way, as would a piquant hot sauce. What is not negotiable is a napkin. This isn’t clean eating, by any sense of the word.