I cook fish very simply, to appreciate its superb qualities. Invariably, I leave the skin on, as a well cooked skin – beautifully coloured with a definite bite – is the perfect counterpart to the sweet delicate succulent flesh beneath. We cook most firm-fleshed fish the same way: skin side down in a hot pan with a little olive oil, without turning or prodding until the skins pops from the base of the pan. Then, still unturned, we finish the cooking in a hot oven for a minute or two. Cooked this way, the flesh stays delicate, plump and very pure.