In France, monkfish is known as poor man’s lobster. Plump, white and firm, with only a backbone, it is easy to fillet and its meaty texture works well in fish stews. Here you can use mussels or prawns instead of clams, perhaps adding a handful of black olives, or leaving out the almonds… it’s up to you. I serve it with garlicky sourdough toast and a leafy salad dressed with lemon and olive oil.