I grew up in Australia where summers could be fierce, with endless days on the beach and long, hot restless nights. English summers are very different, but I have learnt to love them none the less. Gentler, sweeter, light filled days, rich green hills and a lazy ripe anticipation in the air. The produce during these months is glorious – strawberries, raspberries, redcurrants, peaches, nectarines, apricots, courgettes, summer savory, beetroot, peas, broad beans, wild salmon, crab and lobster are among the finest. I love salads and at this time of year leaves are at their best, especially bull’s blood, dandelion, watercress, rocket and wonderfully fragrant herbs including tarragon, basil and chervil. Beautiful sweet, ripe tomatoes arrive from Italy to supplement home-grown varieties. With such a bountiful selection, to cook in summer is pure joy.