There is a certain, stirring excitement that comes with the change of every season. As ingredients begin to make their yearly re-appearance, like old friends, the thrill for me is indescribable. It’s a chance to revisit favourite recipes or try something new. Autumn doesn’t disappoint. There are quinces, wild mushrooms, walnuts, apples, cobnuts, game, oily fish such as mackerel, sprats and anchovies, mussels, pumpkins, black cabbage, puntarelle and all those beautifully coloured chards. Like the other seasons, if you choose to pay attention to it, autumn has an extraordinary beauty all of its own.