In early summer, when the local fig trees start to come into leaf, I usually pick some of the tender young leaves and steep them in some cider vinegar or white wine vinegar for a couple of weeks. The infused vinegar imparts the most delicious flavour to salad dressings. I’ve used dried figs in a similar way here, for a more autumnal salad – but if you happen to have some fig-leaf vinegar, by all means use that, or try it with fresh figs in late summer. I also make an elderflower vinegar, which I use in dressings or marinades for fish and poultry.