This is a fantastically autumnal dish; there is something super-comforting about the texture of gnocchi. Although I do on occasion make my own, usually with spinach or pumpkin, I am very happy with commercially made gnocchi. We are very fortunate to have such a wide range of squash and pumpkin to choose from now. Search out your favourite varieties: some can be quite dry and good for roasting, while others can be watery and are better for a soup, mash or purée. Either type work pretty well here, although I prefer a drier one to contrast with the giving texture of the gnocchi. Squash keeps well, so don’t worry that a larger squash will go to waste if you are cooking just for yourself – simply remove the seeds, but leave the skin on, and it should last in the fridge for several days.