This is one of my favourite recipes from my time living in Vancouver, when maple syrup and locally-grown hazelnuts were a happy staple in my kitchen. I lived really close to a brilliant biodynamic and organic butcher who I’d pester for unusual cuts like oxtail, tongue and pigs’ cheeks. You might need to ask your butcher in advance for pig’s cheeks, but it’s worth the extra effort as when cooked slowly in this rich braise, they are melty, yet meaty, yielding and gorgeous – just perfect with crunchy hazelnuts and tart pickled apple. I serve them with wet polenta to soak up all those maple-y juices, but it would be just as nice with gnocchi, buttery potato purée or fettuccine.