My friend James is a fantastic chef. In the absurdly stressful run-up to opening his first restaurant, Lyle’s in Shoreditch, he managed to spare an afternoon to teach me this dish in my tiny kitchen. I will always thank him for that. The dish centres around wonderful thrifty and meaty cod cheeks, which you’ll probably need to ask your fishmonger for a couple of days in advance. It’s a brilliant dish for its simplicity, purity and vibrancy, and it’s also a masterclass in balancing flavours. Have a go, and, as James would say, remember to use your palate to guide you when you’re cooking. James is very particular about ingredients. He says ‘Life’s too short for bad vinegar, oil and anchovies’ and advises using the best possible quality you can find to make this dish really special. I’m not about to argue!