At first taste, I thought the pale yellow colour of Portuguese rice pudding was down to incredibly rich cream or oodles of butter. But, during lunch with our friend Hugo Goncalves, I got the chance to ask his mother, Maria Helena Goncalves, or Lena, who co-owns and runs Foxtrot cocktail bar. She explained that – like so many desserts in Lisbon – this too is enriched with egg yolks, which in Lisbon seem to always be a gloriously vivid shade of orange.