One night, a chef friend took us out for chicken wings: he drove us for an hour, deep into the suburbs of Istanbul, while we wondered where he could be taking us. We found ourselves at an open-air restaurant, Meşhur Kanatçı Haydar’in Yeri, in Yenibosna, where tables of families were busy demolishing huge platters of chicken wings, served with shepherd’s salad and grilled long green peppers. The only other thing you’ll need is piles and piles of napkins ... and, maybe, a cold beer.