‘Black and blue’

‘Black and blue’

Berries and blood plums, almond joconde, licorice panna cotta

By
From
New Classics
Makes
6 x 125 ml dariole moulds
Photographer
Mark Roper

This is an unusual but delicious combination. I have found that people either love or hate licorice, but they always seem to like this recipe. The name came about, not just from the black and blue berries, but from a colleague who said the dish reminded her of a beautiful bruise.

Raspberry jelly

Ingredients

Quantity Ingredient
1kg frozen raspberries, defrosted in a metal bowl over a pan of simmering water
60g caster sugar
4 leaves of gold-strength gelatine, soaked in cold water
20ml see method for ingredients

Panna cotta

Quantity Ingredient
40g soft licorice
30g caster sugar
50ml water
150ml milk
375ml thickened cream
3 leaves of gold-strength gelatine, soaked in cold water

Almond joconde

Quantity Ingredient
370g tpt, (equal quantities pure icing sugar and ground almonds, sifted together)
5 whole eggs
150g egg whites
30g caster sugar
60g plain, sifted
40g butter, melted and cooled
250g raspberry, blackberry or blueberry jam

Poached blood plums

Quantity Ingredient
6 perfectly ripe blood plums
145g caster sugar
500ml water
100ml raspberry juice
1 orange, zested removed with a vegetable peeler, white pith removed
1 star anise
1 vanilla bean, split and seeds scraped out

To serve

Quantity Ingredient
250g raspberries
250g blackberries
250g blueberries
silver leaf, (optional)

Method

  1. To make the raspberry jelly, strain the raspberries through a fine sieve and measure out 400 ml of the juice, reserving the remainder. Warm the juice in a saucepan over low heat with the sugar and stir to dissolve. Squeeze the water from the gelatine and add the gelatine to the juice. Swirl the pan until the gelatine has completely dissolved. Add the cassis or cordial.
  2. Put six 125 ml capacity dariole moulds on a tray and refrigerate until chilled, about 15–20 minutes. Transfer the jelly to a pitcher and divide into the moulds . Leave in the refrigerator to set for about an hour.
  3. To make the panna cotta, chop the licorice and put in a small saucepan with the sugar and water. Cook over low heat, stirring with a whisk, until the licorice has dissolved. Bring the milk and cream up to the boil in another medium saucepan, then add a little of this to the licorice mixture. Combine the two mixtures then squeeze the excess water from the gelatine and add the gelatine to the pan. Swirl to dissolve the gelatine completely. Strain into a large pitcher and allow to cool, stirring often, for about 15 minutes. (You want the mixture to be cool-ish but not set; pourable, but not warm enough to melt the jelly.) Gently and slowly pour the licorice mixture into the moulds, holding them on a slight slant so as not to dislodge the jelly. Return to the refrigerator and set overnight (or for at least 4 hours).
  4. To make the joconde, preheat the oven to 220°C. Line a heavybased 30–40 cm baking tray with baking paper. Put the TPT in the bowl of an electric mixer with a whisk attachment. Add the whole eggs and whisk on high, until pale and thick. In another bowl, whisk the egg whites until they are foamy. Sprinkle in the sugar and continue to whisk until the mixture holds soft peaks. Add one-third of the egg white mixture to the TPT mixture, along with the sifted flour and cooled melted butter. Fold the ingredients together using a spatula then fold in the rest of the egg white mixture. Spread onto the prepared baking tray and bake for 5 minutes. The cake should be light golden brown and puffed up. Remove the tray from the oven, invert the joconde and peel off the baking paper. Allow to cool.
  5. Warm up the jam in a small saucepan over low heat with a splash of water and push through a sieve to remove the seeds. Using a pastry brush or palette knife, spread a generous layer of jam over the joconde, leaving one-quarter uncovered. Cut the joconde into 4 strips widthways, then stack on top of each other leaving the un-jammed one until last. Trim the edges. Wrap in plastic wrap and set aside until serving.
  6. For the poached blood plums, cut the plums in half and remove the stones. Combine the other ingredients in a saucepan and bring the syrup to a simmer over medium heat and then reduce the heat to low. Add the fruit, cut side up, and cover with a cartouche. Poach over low heat until the plums are just hot through and tender. (Take care that the syrup doesn’t boil or the fruit will become too soft and fall apart.) Remove the pan from the heat and allow to cool in the syrup then remove the plums gently with a slotted spoon. Place on a plate or tray and refrigerate. Return the syrup to the heat and reduce by half. Strain and refrigerate.
  7. To serve

    Dip each dariole mould into very hot water and invert onto serving plates. Shake to dislodge. Place a slice of the joconde on each plate. Add two halves of plum each and scatter on the berries. Drizzle with a little plum syrup. Add tiny wisps of silver leaf using tweezers or the tip of a small knife.
Tags:
Philippa
Phillipa
Sibley
European
restaurant
chef
high
end
fine
dining
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