For me, baking and steaming are the best ways to cook haddock. That’s why fish and chips are so good – the fish steams inside its protective batter jacket. Other cooking techniques seem to dry out the fish too much. I’m a fan of béarnaise sauce, so I decided to create a simple butter with the same flavours. It marries so well with the fish, tomatoes and mushrooms, bringing the whole dish together. You can use cod, hake or really fresh whiting in place of the haddock, if you like.