I think I’m quite alone in that I don’t particularly like ramen. Maybe that’s an exaggeration. I don’t mind it, but wouldn’t queue for it. I probably can’t be bothered to queue for anything, to be honest. If I have ramen, I eat it quietly, which evidently is completely missing the point. The proper way is to slurp the noodles, pulling in lots of air at the same time. Frankly I would have received a slap on the head for those table manners when I was young. You don’t forget those lessons.
The best bit for me are the perfectly cooked eggs – easily peeled with a custardy, brilliantly coloured yolk centred in a firm white. They are a revelation against the sulphurous green–grey of the overcooked, hard-boiled egg. I’ve included a ramen egg marinade, because it tastes quite good.