I had my first lesson in making wonton in the 1950s. Lean Sun Low was a restaurant in Dixon Street in Sydney’s Chinatown. Like in many Chinese restaurants, when there was a lull, staff would sit at one of the tables preparing food. As I was a curious, regular customer, they shared the secret of making the delicate morsels that were an essential ingredient in the short soup that I loved.
Wonton, which in Chinese means ‘swallowing clouds’, are boiled and served in a broth — short soup — or served in a broth with noodles — long and short soup. They can also be fried and served with sweet and sour sauce, or shaped into money bags and steamed to become dim sim (steamed dumplings).