Another dish I enjoy at Ikan Bakar Pak Lang in Kampung Baru is roasted quails with curry leaves. The quails look (and smell) so appetising, nestled in a fluffy bed of fried onion, chillies and curry leaves. This dish is part of the restaurant’s mind-boggling, help-yourself, nasi kandar selection, where you start with a big mound of steamed rice on your plate and then select curries, salads and other tantalising dishes arranged on trays to go with it. The quails are very simple to cook and they’re packed with flavour, not just from the curry leaves, but from five-spice powder, fresh ginger and soy sauce too. All you need to do is marinate the quails and roast them in the oven and, while they’re in there, you deep-fry the curry leaves, chillies and onions. Just don’t overcook those birds – they should be slightly pink and juicy in the middle.