Klang is a small Hokkien town near Kuala Lumpur and it’s home to my favourite place for eating bak kut teh – a heavily flavoured soupy stew rich with meaty, spicy and herbal elements that I just can’t get enough of. Bak kut teh translates as ‘meat bone tea’ and a few regions claim it, each giving the dish a slightly different twist. Klang bak kut teh (and many claim Klang to be its true home) has a dark brown broth that’s deeply scented, complex and intense in flavour. The one I eat at Sei Ngan Chai, a home-style restaurant with fabulously old-school decor, contains big chunks of pork still on the bone and, if you fancy them, pieces of offal and tofu puffs as well. Bak kut teh isn’t difficult to make but the spices used here, which include medicinal ingredients such as angelica root, solomon’s seal, Sichuan lovage and Chinese licorice as well as regular spices like cassia bark, star anise and pepper, can be tricky to find individually. To save time and hassle, just pick up a packet of the spice mix from a Chinese grocer.