The saying ‘as cool as a cucumber’ refers to the vegetable’s refreshing nature and high water content; they actually feel cooler than air temperature. Given the intense nature of the grill environment, it is surprising that anything could remain cool but this dish manages to do that. It is refreshing and is full of distinctive contrasts of textures and flavours – all from the cucumber. The combination of fermented and grilled cucumber, and the bracing nature of the raw cucumber, results in notes of complex char, briny tang, and unadulterated rawness in the same mouthful. The dill crème fraîche binds the cucumbers into a heavenly threesome, which is lifted by the horseradish.