Nana is Tuscan for ‘duck’, hence the Italian name for the sauce. Historically, many families in Tuscany who had a garden would have had ducks, therefore it was simple to cook one for lunch. Ducks are roasted, cooked in sauce or, in this case, used to make the famous Tuscan duck ragù. We use legs because they are cheaper than the breasts and have more flavour. You can use the whole duck, jointed, but since you have to pick the meat from the bones it is easier to do this with the legs. This type of sauce is typically served with fresh pasta such as tagliatelle or maltagliati – the misshapen pieces – or the potato-filled Ravioli di Mugello, and is not normally served with cheese.