Preserving fruit is something many countryside-dwelling Tuscans do. Most of our Italian friends never weigh anything or follow an exact recipe, as the proportions of fruit and sugar depend on the size and sweetness of the fruit in season. Our friend Nick Sandler, a keen preserver whom we met through writing our book The Gentle Art of Preserving, has followed in the Italian tradition of storing summer fruits for winter use and gave us a jar of his compote after a blackberry picking session. A composta such as this is ideal at breakfast with yoghurt and walnuts, or with cream for a dessert. Our son Flavio puts a spoonful on his oats and yoghurt, and it is superb.
Depending on the sweetness of the blackberries, you can use more or less sugar. We try to use the minimum. The cherry brandy is optional; leave it out or substitute it with brandy or rum. As this recipe makes a small amount you can simply keep the compote in the fridge without worrying about preserving techniques, but I have given the instructions for sterilising should you want to make more. The filled jars do need to be boiled to create a vacuum as there is not enough sugar or alcohol alone to preserve them out of the fridge.