We watched the experienced hands of Valentina – the pasta maker at Taverna Nicastro in Modica – work her magic on a huge sheet of bright yellow pasta. Between the rhythmic movements of flouring, rolling, filling, folding and cutting, she produced puffy parcels of lemon-scented ricotta wrapped in pasta. It was a joy to watch the timing and carefully choreographed kitchen performance of the cooks. In many restaurants this lemony pasta is served with a pork ragu, which is actually just the sauce from the traditional slow-cooked ragu. It is also good with the Cherry Tomato Sauce, or simply tossed in butter and sage like the Sunset Agnolotti.