I invented what I call ‘fridge jam’ as a sort of halfway house between a full-blown preserve and a fresh fruit sauce. With only two-thirds the sugar of a standard jam, it has a softer, looser set and a sharper flavour. It’s very versatile. You can still serve it on toast, of course, but at home we mostly have it for breakfast with pancakes or on yoghurt. It’s outstanding with rice pudding, too. Make it with strawberries, raspberries or gooseberries, or try my favourite morello cherry jam (see below).