In the Middle East they get their pigeons live from the souks, and grill them over a hot barbecue. Here in Australia we have to make do with the less flavoursome farmed variety – usually sold as squab, which are tender baby birds weighing 250–400 g. Their rich, dark meat is delicious in this spicy sauce. The combination of pigeon and dates is a Persian and Moroccan favourite, although traditional recipes, which use large amounts of fruit, can be too sweet for western palates. In this version, the sauce is spiced with pungent saffron and ginger, which help cut the sweetness and richness of the dish. It needs only a simple pilaf or couscous accompaniment.