I’ve always loved the combination of roses and rhubarb: I’ve scattered fresh rose petals over pink-topped rhubarb Pavlova, and I’ve cooked rhubarb over the lowest of heats with rose water and honey – both times making an exquisite combination. Here, I’m integrating this gorgeous duo into a cure for fresh trout. It’s a little like making a gravadlax, except I’ve replaced the dill with the heady, aromatic roses and the lemon with the brash acidity of rhubarb. If you’ve caught the fish yourself, you’ll need to have a good go at the pin-boning (I use a small pair of pin-boning tweezers) to remove as many bones as possible before you cure the fish. If you’re buying filleted fish, your fishmonger will have done this for you.