Florentines love fresh pasta and, in particular, pappardelle – wide, flat noodles often made with a ruffled edge that cleverly holds sauce. It is the ideal accompaniment to rich, gamey Tuscan sauces of wild boar, venison, duck or hare. The word pappardelle comes from ‘pappare’ (where the word ‘pappa’ also stems from), which roughly translates as ‘to devour’, an apt description for how best to enjoy this pasta.
Traditionally made with a whole duck, carcass and all, this dish is quite extraordinary and incredibly flavourful. You can imagine that in times past, a whole duck was probably easier to get than four duck legs, which might seem quite wasteful. There are many Tuscans (such as my husband’s relatives) who are lucky enough to have a bit of land and who still rear their own ducks for food. Using the whole bird in a recipe like this is a way to make the most out of what you have and not waste a thing, while creating the best possible flavour.
I like this dish the traditional way, using a whole duck; but buying a whole duck for this purpose may be a bit expensive. Another option is to just use the duck legs, as I have done here. You’ll have a bit more meat this way and the bones still lend good flavour to the sauce.