This is my favourite way to prepare any wild mushroom – that is, extremely simply, letting the mushrooms speak for themselves. I like to use a mixture of mushrooms whenever possible. I find porcini on their own incredibly strong, so I like to add a handful of sunny chanterelles or Caesar’s mushrooms, which not only add depth of flavour but they brighten up the plate, too. Once you’ve taken the time to clean the mushrooms of their forest floor dirt, this sauce is very quick to prepare. It goes best with fresh pasta, but in a pinch, dried pasta makes this a very quick meal indeed. Don’t go overboard with the cheese (in fact, you could easily leave it off entirely) as you don’t want to mask the flavour of the mushrooms.
Marco’s nonna Lina was superstitious in the kitchen (you could never lay a loaf of bread upside-down or let the salt spill around her) and she used to prepare freshly picked mushrooms with nepitella (calamint) and an obligatory garlic clove. They used to say that the garlic would turn black to warn you if any of the foraged mushrooms were poisonous impostors (there are several varieties of mushroom that look very similar to Caesar’s mushrooms but are actually deadly). I like to think this old wives’ tale is just a way to remember that garlic goes really, really well with wild mushrooms.