Foraged chestnuts traditionally were a delicious, free and readily available ingredient that kept well for months over long winters and filled up hungry bellies. During times of great poverty in Italy, they say that polenta saved the north and fish saved the south, while chestnuts saved central Italy. This particular dish was a frugal way to stretch the chickpeas in a meal, a very literal illustration of the saying that a poor person deve contare anche i ceci (must count even his chickpeas).
Traditionally, dried chickpeas are used in this soup. If you have these, soak them in cool water for 12 hours before boiling them until soft with a rosemary sprig and a clove of garlic. Dried or freshly collected chestnuts can also be used; both need to be boiled until tender, the latter scored with a deep cross before heading for the pot and peeled after boiling. Don’t throw away the liquid used to cook any of these ingredients; it can become the broth for the soup.
For convenience sake, this version uses pre-cooked chickpeas and chestnuts, which means this soup can be made in less than 15 minutes. It will feed four as part of a multiple-course meal, or two very hungry people if it’s the only dish served. It’s a humble, comforting soup, just the thing for a cosy night in with a glass of robust red wine.