Rather like a minestrone, this simple vegetable soup of cannellini beans, leafy greens and mushrooms is the food equivalent of a comforting hug. If you can find it (literally, by foraging for it), the best green to use would be sea beet or bietola selvatica (Beta vulgaris or Beta maritima). This wild weed is the ancestor to beetroot (beet) and Swiss chard (silverbeet) and grows, as its name suggests, near the sea. This particular recipe is from Capalbio, but Italo Arieti (who writes on the food history of Lazio’s Maremma) says the roots and young, glossy leaves of sea beet were traditionally collected for preparing the similar Acquacotta Viterbese. Other substitutes would be beetroot (beet) leaves or even English spinach. Use any favourite mushrooms here.