A regional French dish from the Massif Central. Whipping the potatoes with the cheese, cream, garlic, salt and pepper until smooth and slightly elastic makes it astonishingly good. It’s traditionally made with a Tomme cheese, but a good Cheddar or Lancashire will work here. Serve just warm, with some fried fat French-style sausages (Toulouse), cornichons or gherkins, boiled new potatoes and some crusty bread. It’s a Sunday night treat sort of supper.