Another punchy Sichuan dish but this time potent with garlic, not spice. It’s easy to make (you just need to cook the meat the day before, then chill and slice it finely) but depends, for optimum success, on the best pork money can buy. Choose a cut with a good ratio of fat to lean: belly, shoulder or neck all work well. It rightly needs some skin in the equation too, as the contrasting textures of melting fat, soft meat and slightly chewy skin, all cut through with a hot jolt of garlic sauce, are nothing short of sublime.