If there’s one ingredient that’s a revelation to the food tourist in China, it’s vinegar. There are a few notable centres of production: in Zhenjiang (previously spelled ‘Chinkiang’), in Jiangsu Province, and in the northern city of Taiyuan, in Shanxi. Made from rice, water and salt and according to processes of natural fermentation, the best Chinese vinegars are worthy of any Italian balsamic, with mellow, full and complex flavours and a slightly sweet edge. In Shanxi, people routinely drink a little for medicinal purposes, and it’s not unheard of to take a bottle with them when they travel. We love it in cooked dishes too, as in this meaty braise for noodles.