You couldn’t get more rustic, rural and hearty than this soup, a simple broth with incredible depth of flavour. After long, slow cooking the oxtail is deliciously beefy and sticky — you have to suck the meat off the bones, but by all means pull the meat off the bones, shred it, then add it to the soup. Eat this with bowls of steamed rice and pickled vegetables, and perhaps some chunks of pumpkin cooked down to an intensely flavoursome purée in nothing but some oil and its own juices.