‘Pumpkin dumplings!’ shrieked our Taiwanese friend Sarah, who has lived all over the mainland for years. ‘That’s not Chinese!’ Unhappily we’ve never quite made it to Xinjiang, the sprawling Muslim region in the northwest, but we have eaten bucketloads of food from that area during our travels. These are based on a dish from that region, kawa mantisi, or pumpkin dumplings. So, technically, she’s right; these aren’t strictly Han Chinese, but Xinjiang counts as part of Greater China, as it’s within the borders.