In the West we tend to favour cuts of meat that come without the perceived challenges of skin, bones and connective tissue. But these are the very elements that make wings so darned delicious! It’s such a satisfying experience, gnawing the succulent flesh off a grilled or fried wing, taking in all the lip-smacking skin, tendon and lush bits of fat. In Southeast Asia they have no such qualms about ‘lesser’ cuts, particularly in Cambodia, where we’ve eaten many a fine wing. The green mango salad is wonderful but not essential.