The most memorable version of this dish that we ever ate wasn’t in Thailand at all, but rather in West Hollywood in LA, at a neighbourhood restaurant called Jitlada. A humble place in a shopping strip and with a huge cult following, their food is off-the-dial amazing. Don’t despair if you can’t procure cha om (acacia leaves) – although they can be found in the freezers of specialist Thai grocers. You can substitute very finely shredded English spinach leaves which, though they won’t deliver that distinctive, almost medicinal flavour, will still taste great.