Every Italian region, sometimes even every town, has a pasta e fagioli, which is a charming and warming cucina povera dish. It can be very thick or more soupy, according to the area of its origin. For me, it is a benchmark in my restaurants: if a chef can’t make it properly, then he is not a good or conscientious chef. This southern version of the classic dish is totally different from the northern, and would traditionally make use of the leftovers of many packets of different pasta shapes, called munnezzaglia (rubbish). Nowadays, commercial pasta companies provide ready-mixed pasta in bags to be bought for the occasion, known as pasta mista.