Istanbul has a wonderful restaurant called Canım Ciğerim (‘My liver, my dear’) in Beyoğlu, where the Turkish obsession with liver means there are always queues for a table. Open until 5am, long skewered liver kebabs are grilled and served with fresh mint and rocket, grilled vegetables, onion, sumac and ezme salad (chopped tomato, onion, parsley and pomegranate molasses) and flatbreads that you roll everything up in.