The most famous restaurant to eat this dish in Hanoi is Cha Ca La Vong, in the Old Quarter. A specialty of the Doan family, their closely guarded recipe has been handed down through generations, delighting diners huddled around tabletop burners on cold Hanoi evenings, taking in the rich aromas. Cha ca literally means ‘fried fish’. The special twist with this recipe is that the fish is cooked twice (first grilled, then fried), so you’ll need a firm-fleshed fish that does not break apart easily during cooking.